Adventurer Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto never shied absent from a challenge – in reality, he was influenced by them.
As the Guinness Entire world Documents title holder for the swiftest double-header of the bigger 8,000ers devoid of supplementary oxygen, he produced history in 2019 by turning into 1 of the few persons to have ever summitted the two of the world’s highest peaks back-to-back again, in document time.
There are 14 mountain peaks on Earth that exceed an altitude of 8,000 m (26,246 ft) but there is a considerable hole in between the fifth and sixth peaks, therefore the identification of the “Higher Eight-thousanders”. These five peaks are Everest (8,848 m), K2 (8,611 m), Kangchenjunga (8,586 m), Lhotse (8,516 m) and Makalu (8,485 m).
Prieto was the initially Chilean to at any time achieve the major of Everest, and consequently the only one to do so without any oxygen tanks to guide with the altitude and climb on his journey.
In a issue of 6 times and 20 hrs, he managed to climb to the summit of Lhotse (8,516 meters above sea stage) and then achieve the top rated of Everest at (8,848 meters higher than sea level) by way of Foundation Camp 2 which is shared by the two mountains.
Regrettably, Prieto handed away February of this 12 months, after trying to ascend Everest’s peak K2 during its treacherous wintertime year.
Whilst he will no longer be in a position to continue his mountaineer missions, his workforce, with assist from North Face Chile, have teamed up to release a documentary of his file-breaking climb to honor his legacy and achievements.
Expedición Lhotse – Everest sin oxígeno, produced by Fundación Deporte Libre, showcases the grit, willpower, and risk Prieto confronted in buy to carry out his aspiration of breaking a record.
Tickets can be bought for the film listed here, which will air from 21 May 2021 at 20:00 EST right up until 24 Might 2021 at 00:00 EST. All proceeds from the tickets will go specifically to aid his a few youngsters, Pedro, Elisa and Juan Pablo, who share the exact adore for nature and climbing as their late father.
The movie showcases all facets of the trip, which includes the emotional and unexpected circumstances that arose on the expedition.
Some of these involved ice falls, which are normally a hazard summitting these mountains, but 1 incorporated a rescue mission of two individual climbers who were being suffering from pulmonary edema on the mountainside.
Prieto and his crew attempted to enable Bulgarian Ivan Yuriev Tomov and Russian Nastya Runova by bringing them to security, but they had been unfortunately far too late.
In the midst of the hazardous hike, Tomov passed away in Prieto’s arms from the extreme disorders of the environment.
The Chilean mountain man never forgot that experience or the some others he confronted prior to his record-breaking achievement.
In advance of climbing Lhotse and Everest, he also conquered 5 of the optimum peaks in the planet: Dhaulagiri, Annapurna, and Manaslu.
Preparation for just about every journey is crucial for success, and Prieto felt that it was always greatest to acclimate one’s human body to the actual physical issues endured on serious climbs, such as altitude sickness, slender air, extensive bouts of exhaustion and a lot more.
But for him, the education was truly worth it for the benefits each individual hike presents.
“The mountains give me every thing, it is a variety of meditation. When you have by now been walking for 10 hrs, your thoughts is blank. You are focused only on the mountain, you overlook about all the daily complications.”
Now, Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto is remembered by his loved types and those in the mountaineering neighborhood – who share that he was one of the most good and uplifting people they experienced ever met.
His cousin, Sergi Mingote, mentions his enthusiasm for everyday living, which he figured out from his father.
“Juan Pablo was a humble and cheerful man, with excellent physicality. He was often well prepared to do a mission. I am his cousin, and he often explained to me how critical it was to finish my desires. He firmly believed that anything is probable.”