For 3 times, I revel in its raw glory, the several hours punctuated by sightings of lone black rhinos, shy giraffes and hundreds of gnarly trees and spiky bushes that have adapted to everyday living in this solar-scorched setting.
It is really hard to visualize the ocean is just outside of the mountains, 40 miles absent. It is a 7-hour immediate travel, taken on by only the most intrepid of travellers — and stories of people today having dropped for days persuade me to take a slower, clearer highway. Inevitably, the wheels crunch down a gravel strip that operates parallel to just one of the most treacherous shores in the world: the Skeleton Coast.
On most times, the sunshine-bleached bones of whales and the rusty shells of shipwrecks and planes would sit beneath a low blanket of fog. But nowadays, a vibrant blue sky tends to make the tumbling waves an inviting turquoise. I park up at Mowe Bay and hold out for a additional able driver to shuttle me alongside the final stretch.
At Shipwreck Lodge, our guideline, Shiimi, greets us with a smile just before using us out on the lodge’s large-pace quad bikes. We established off, accelerating up dunes so large and steep I experience like I’m hurtling into the sky. We get to the ridge and swoop down the other aspect. Miles and miles of golden sand unfold out in entrance of us the Kaokoveld, or ‘coast of loneliness’ in area Herero language, stretches further than.
But there are far more docile means to get in this lodge’s distant location, which sits at the mouth of the Hoarusib River. At the lodge, 10 cabins, made in the model of shipwrecks, operate parallel to the ocean and are cosily kitted out with wood-burning stoves.
Shiimi and I pitch up on the edge of the seashore the place a barbecued feast is laid out beside an viewers of playful seals. Later on, I strap myself into a seat on the roof of a jeep although Shiimi navigates the coastline, stopping to place out the remnants of the ships that ran aground on these formidable shores, and the jackals and hyenas that scavenge below for food stuff. “To see this landscape — the ocean and the dunes — roll into 1 is what will make this place so unique for me,” he tells us. “This area soothes my soul.”
I concur. The subsequent morning, I wrap myself in a blanket to defend myself from the worst of the bracing Benguela Latest breeze, sit again on a seat on my outside the house deck, and sip coffee to a soundtrack of pounding waves and wind whipping by the dunes. In the local Nama language, the phrase ‘Namib’ translates to ‘vast area of nothingness’.
And I wouldn’t want for everything extra.
How to do it: Abercrombie & Kent provides a 12-night ‘Discover Namibia’ excursion from £3,995 for every particular person (centered on two sharing), which includes stays at Hoanib Valley Camp and Shipwreck Lodge, flights, motor vehicle hire, personal transfers, safari prices on a comprehensive-board foundation and international flights.